耶路撒冷:歷史、信仰與人性的交織

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“Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre,” by Pompi, published February 15, 2017.
https://pixabay.com/photos/basilica-of-the-holy-sepulchre-2070814/

Jerusalem: A Tapestry of History, Faith, and Humanity

耶路撒冷:歷史、信仰與人性的交織

Today is Christmas, December 25th, a day when many celebrate the birth of Jesus. The exact date of Jesus’ birth remains unknown, as it is not explicitly mentioned in the Gospels or any historical documents. However, the tradition of observing Jesus’ birth on December 25th was first officially established by Pope Julius I in 350 AD. On this special day, I am eager to share with you some insights about Jerusalem, the sacred city where Jesus preached and where I had the honor of embarking on a pilgrimage as a Christian.

今天是聖誕節,12月25日,對許多人來說,這是慶祝耶穌誕生的日子。沒有人確切知道耶穌的出生日期,因為福音書或任何歷史資料中都沒有明確記載。然而,基督教傳統上將耶穌的誕生日期定在12月25日,這一傳統最早於公元350年由教皇朱利葉斯一世正式提出。因此,在這特別的日子,我希望與大家分享一些關於耶路撒冷的資訊,那是耶穌宣教的聖城,也是我作為基督徒有幸進行朝聖的地方。


In the midst of ongoing conflict, it’s difficult to fathom visiting the historical city of Jerusalem. Having had the privilege to embark on a Christian pilgrimage there shortly before the outbreak of war, I feel compelled to share the city’s rich history, irrespective of your faith background. Jerusalem is more than a pin on a map or a political hotbed; it’s a city that epitomizes the intertwining of different civilizations, religious doctrines, and historical narratives.

在這場曠日持久的衝突中,我們確實不會想起參訪這座歷史悠久的城市——耶路撒冷。就在戰爭爆發的前數週,我有幸踏上了一趟基督教的朝聖之旅。因此,我亟欲與大家分享這座城市的豐富歷史——即便你我的信仰或有不同。耶路撒冷不只是地圖上的一個地方或政治焦點,它是一座交織著不同文明、宗教教義與歷史敘事的城市。


Nestled within contemporary Jerusalem lies the Old City, a timeless enclave awash with the stories of humanity. Surrounded by walls that have stood as silent witnesses to countless civilizations from the days of ancient Israelites, Roman conquerors, to Ottoman rule—the Old City is not merely a tourist destination but a spiritual center for millions worldwide.

舊城(the Old City)位於當今的耶路撒冷內,是一處充滿人類故事的永恆飛地(enclave)。城區四面環牆,從古代以色列人、羅馬征服者到鄂圖曼(Ottoman)帝國的統治,這些城牆已默默地見證了無數的文明。舊城不僅是一處旅遊景點,更是全球數百萬人心之所向的精神中心。


A must-visit landmark in Jerusalem is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a site held sacred by Christians as it is the believed location of Jesus Christ’s crucifixion, burial, and resurrection. Having had the opportunity to visit this spiritual and historic site, I found it incredibly moving to step into what is believed to be Jesus’s tomb and to offer a prayer to my wife, child, and families around the world at the very place where He is said to have been resurrected. As one can see in photos, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a place where you can marvel at history, architecture, and spirituality regardless of your faith.

聖墓教堂(the Church of the Holy Sepulchre)是耶路撒冷的必看景點,基督徒認為這是耶穌基督被釘死在十字架上、埋葬並復活的地點。有機會參訪此一精神性與歷史性的聖地,走進那據信是耶穌的墓地,並於傳說中他所復活的地方為我的妻孩以及全世界的家庭祈禱,這對我來說無疑感人至深。從照片中我們可以看到,無論你的信仰為何,聖墓教堂都是一處讓你對歷史、建築與靈性(spirituality)感到驚嘆的地方。


The Western Wall, or the “Kotel” for Jews, is another invaluable living monument of Jerusalem. This remaining wall of the Second Temple serves as a lasting emblem of Jewish heritage. The temple was built as a successor to Solomon’s Temple, which was destroyed by the Babylonians in 586 BCE. The Second Temple served as the cornerstone of Jewish life, housing the Sanhedrin, the ancient Jewish court, and serving as the setting for significant New Testament events, such as Jesus expelling money changers. The Romans demolished the Second Temple in 70 CE as part of a broader campaign to suppress a Jewish revolt and consolidate their control over Judea. This devastating act is said to lead to a diaspora of the Jewish people and is mourned each year on the fast day of Tisha B’Av.

對猶太人來說,西牆(The Western Wall)——或謂「哭牆」(Kotel)——也是耶路撒冷現存的珍貴遺址(monument)。這面第二聖殿所遺留下來的牆垣,是猶太人文化傳統(heritage)經久不壞的象徵。西元前586年,索羅門聖殿遭巴比倫人摧毀,第二聖殿便建於索羅門聖殿之後。第二聖殿不僅是一處供奉的聖地,也是猶太人生活的基石,內有古老的猶太人議會(Sanhedrin),也是《新約聖經》中一些重大事件的事發地點,如耶穌驅逐貨幣兌換商。在一場範圍更廣的戰事以鎮壓猶太人起義之際,羅馬人在西元70年摧毀了第二聖殿,並加強了他們對猶太(Judea)地區的控制。此一悲劇致使猶太人流離失所,而每年在聖殿被毀日(Tisha B’Av)——即埃波月第九日——此一齋戒日上都會為此哀悼。


The blocks of the Western Wall are massive, with some weighing as much as 8 tons. I am still puzzled how these gargantuan boulders were moved and placed so precisely without the benefit of modern machinery as even few mechanical cranes today could lift them.

西牆的石塊簡直是龐然大物,有些重達8噸。時至今日,也鮮有起重機能夠搬動它們。這些巨石究竟是如何在沒有現代科技的幫助下,如此精準地移置於此呢?對此,我仍相當困惑。


The Old City’s fabric consists of more than religious landmarks; it’s an amalgamation of four quarters—Jewish, Christian, Muslim, and Armenian—all contributing to a tapestry where Roman roads intersect with Ottoman architecture, and where churches, synagogues, and mosques share proximity, if not a mutual understanding. Underlying tensions still seethes through the surface at times, as IDF soldiers patrol every corner.

舊城的結構不僅包含了各式宗教性地標,城區也由四個部分——猶太人、基督徒、穆斯林與亞美尼亞人——所組成。羅馬式街道貫穿了鄂圖曼建築,教堂(churches)、猶太會堂(synagogues)與清真寺也相互比鄰,交織成一塊豐富多彩的織錦。隨著以色列國防軍( IDF)的嚴密巡視,暗潮洶湧的緊張感仍不時浮出水面。


I personally enjoyed the Jewish quarters the most because of its unique blend of ancient and modern elements. The area teems with life, from the devout prayers at the Western Wall to the bustling markets and shops that offer a wide array of goods, from Judaica to local cuisine as the falafels you see in my photos. What impressed me the most is how devout the Jewish people are, as religious community events seem to be weaved into their everyday life. I see people gather and joined as a community in prayers and hymns every day I was there, and I joined them as a Christian. The Islamic presence in the Old City is anchored by the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque, situated on the Temple Mount. These landmarks are not just architectural wonders but are revered as the third holiest sites in Islam. Needlessly to say, it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for a person coming from Taiwan.

我個人最喜愛猶太區,它融合了古代與現代的元素而獨具特色。從西牆的虔誠禱告到人聲鼎沸的市集與商鋪,那裡陳列著各式商品供人選擇;從猶太美食到在地佳餚,就像我照片裡的炸豆泥(Falafels),整個猶太區洋溢著旺盛的生命力。最讓我印象深刻的是,猶太人有多麽地虔誠。彷彿宗教性的社區活動已鑲嵌到他們的日常生活裡。在當地的每一天,我都看見人們聚在一起參與社區的禱告並吟唱聖歌。身為基督徒的我也參與其中。在舊城裡,名為岩石圓頂(the Dome of the Rock)的清真寺以及阿克薩清真寺(Al-Aqsa Mosque)彰顯著伊斯蘭文化的影響,它們都位於聖殿山上。這些地標不僅是建築奇觀,也是伊斯蘭教的第三聖地。對來自臺灣的我來說,這無疑是個千載難逢的經歷。


As war engulfs this cherished city, the cost is immeasurable and isn’t limited to the loss of current lives. It also poses the risk of erasing shared heritage, shared spaces—shared humanity. The Old City and landmarks like the Western Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are more than stones of the past; they are the living symbols of our collective history and faiths.

但戰爭席捲了這座寶貴的城市,個中損失早已無法估量。戰爭或將抹去人們所共享的傳統(heritage)、場域——乃至人性(humanity)。舊城以及諸如西牆與聖墓教堂等地標,並非僅是來自過去的石塊,而是我們集體歷史與信仰的鮮明象徵。


Experiencing Jerusalem before the current conflict imbued me with a profound sorrow for the turmoil unleashed upon this mosaic of human history. War detracts from all of us, erasing not just lives but the shared memories and sites that connect us globally. In these times of uncertainty, I pray for a peaceful future where Jerusalem can continue to serve as a city of reconciliation, its rich historical tapestry accessible for all to explore and appreciate—as a body that embodies the shared history, spirituality, and the best of our humanity.

I pray that we may love and cherish one another, and continue to share this timeless treasure. Merry Christmas, everyone!

在衝突發生前親歷耶路撒冷,使我對這場肆虐於這座城市——乘載了人類豐富的歷史——的混亂深感悲慟。戰爭不僅奪走了人們的性命,也無情地摧毀了我們所共享的記憶,以及那片得以聚集世人的寶地。在這前路茫茫的時刻,我為耶路撒冷祈求一個和平的將來,祈禱這座城市可以恢復它和解共生的榮光。耶路撒冷體現著我們所共有的歷史、靈性以及人性那最為美好的一面。它織錦般的豐富歷史,無疑是全人類的寶庫以供我們探索與取用。

期許世人能夠相親相愛,相知相惜。 祝大家聖誕快樂!

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