Middle East: Where Culture Shines Through the Shadows of War
中東：戰爭的陰霾也掩蓋不住的耀眼文化
I wish I could have written these photos under different circumstances, when the Middle East is not at war. Honestly, before this war even occurred, all I would hear about in the Middle East was either related to terrorism or oil prices. We do hear news about the Arab Springs or the US pulling out of Afghanistan, but it seems so far removed from us here in Taiwan.
我希望自己能在不同的情況下撰寫這篇貼文，一個中東並未陷入戰爭的情況。坦白說，在這場戰爭爆發前，我在中東所耳聞者都是關乎恐怖主義或石油價格的消息。在電影或新聞裡，中東時常被描繪成一個滿是衝突的地區。而我們也確實耳聞過阿拉伯之春（Arab Springs），或美國從阿富汗撤軍的新聞。但這些似乎都離臺灣相當遙遠。
In movies or the news, the Middle East is nearly always portrayed as a region plagued by conflict. As the late Edward W Said, a Palestinian American academic, stated:
In newsreels or news-photos, the Arab is always shown in large numbers. No individuality, no personal characteristics or experiences. Most of the pictures represent mass rage and misery, or irrational (hence hopelessly eccentric) gestures. Lurking behind all of these images is the menace of jihad. Consequence: a fear that the Muslims (or Arabs) will take over the world.
誠如巴勒斯坦裔的美籍學者薩依德（Edward W. Said，1935－2003）所言：
「在新聞影片或新聞照片裡，阿拉伯人總是大量出現。沒有個性，沒有個人特徵或個人經歷。大部分的照片所呈現的都是大眾的憤怒與苦難，或者非理性（因此極其怪異）的手勢。這些畫面都隱含著聖戰的威脅。結果：懼怕穆斯林（或阿拉伯人）會掌管世界。」
However, this stereotype could not be further from the truth.
但這樣的一偏之見，無疑與事實大相徑庭。
Now, let’s also not pretend the region is not prone to wars; it is. It is a region with a long history of conflicts and complex geopolitical dynamics, and it can be argued that the international community is fighting proxy wars amidst local actors vying for power. Nonetheless, it’s essential to recognize that the Middle East is not solely defined by its conflicts. It’s also a region with rich histories, diverse traditions, and a tapestry of cultures that deserve to be acknowledged even beyond the lens of war and turmoil.
當然，我們也必須正視中東地區容易擦槍走火的事實。此處的衝突有其悠久的歷史，以及複雜的地緣政治動態（geopolitical dynamics）。可以說，在地方行動者（local actors）爭奪權力的同時，也將國際社會捲入了代理人戰爭。即便如此，我們也不該以衝突來界定中東。畢竟，中東是一處擁有豐富歷史、多元傳統與各式文化的地區，值得我們肯定。
Despite the recent tragedies in the region, my trip in the UAE as an outsider revealed one of deep culture and hospitality. Note that I am not advising you to go now. There’s a huge war going on! However, we can also look at the cultures of the region a little more in depth through a lens that is not defined by war. Today, I will share with you my personal experience in the UAE.
姑不論中東近期的悲劇，以局外人身分到訪阿拉伯的我卻見證了其中深厚的文化底蘊與好客之情。當然，我並不建議各位親臨現場，畢竟當前的戰事尚未消停。不過，我們也可以透過非戰爭的視角，更加深入地觀看該地區的文化。今天，就與大家分享我在阿拉伯的所見所聞。
Before we get started, let’s get a bit of background info on the UAE. So, let’s begin with the first big question. What and where is the UAE?
在正式開始前，請允許我帶各位先大致了解阿拉伯的背景。就讓我們從第一個大哉問開始吧！阿拉伯是什麼，又位於何處？
A Federation of Emirates 一個聯合的大公國
The UAE is a federation of seven distinct emirates, each with its own unique features and geopolitical significance. While Abu Dhabi, rich in oil reserves, holds considerable influence in global energy markets, Dubai has become a global hub for finance, luxury tourism, and real estate. Lesser-known emirates like Fujairah also play critical roles. For example, Fujairah is strategically located outside the Strait of Hormuz, making it a crucial passage for global oil and gas shipments. If you’re into geopolitics, definitely read up on this and how world powers are making their naval presence felt in the Strait.
實際上，除了最廣為人知的大公國——杜拜與阿布達比——外，阿拉伯是由七個不同的大公國所組成的聯邦，每個大公國都有其特點與地緣政治的重要性。例如，坐擁可觀油田的阿布達比在全球能源市場上具有極大的影響力，而杜拜業已成為全球金融、豪華旅遊與房地產的樞紐。另外，低調如富查伊哈（ Fujairah）這樣的大公國也扮演著關鍵角色。例如，富查伊哈地處荷姆茲海峽（Strait of Hormuz）外，使其成為全球石油與天然氣的運輸要道。若你對地緣政治感興趣，上述內容以及世界大國如何在荷姆茲海峽部署海軍都是必知的資訊。
The term “emirates” refers to the territories ruled by an emir, a title for Islamic leaders. The citizens of the UAE are commonly known as Emiratis, and they fall under the governance of these emirs in a federal structure. This federation allows for a blend of traditional governance with modern administrative structures like a Council of Ministers and a Federal National Council.
「大公國」一詞係指由埃米爾（emir）——伊斯蘭領袖的頭銜——統治的領土。阿拉伯的公民通常被稱為阿拉伯人，他們生活在這些埃米爾的聯邦制度裡。此一聯邦以傳統制度為主，並與諸如部長理事會（Council of Ministers）、聯邦國民議會（Federal National Council）等現代行政制度相結合。
★★★★★★★★★★★★
So how did the UAE become so wealthy? Oil, right? Well, not completely.
那麼，阿拉伯到底是怎麼變得如此富有？石油，對吧？不過，這只說對了一部分。
Sixty years ago, Dubai was just a humble fishing village, but today, the UAE stands as an economic behemoth with a 2019 GDP growth of 1.7% and an average local income of $40,000. Despite the COVID-19 impact, the nation’s accomplishments have elevated Emiratis’ living standards and positioned the UAE as a global powerhouse. Within decades, the UAE, a major oil exporter, has expanded its influence in areas like finance, aviation, and tourism to plan for the future when oil production wanes.
六十年前，杜拜仍只是個簡陋的漁村，可如今已躋身為阿拉伯的經濟巨頭。２０１９年，杜拜的ＧＤＰ成長率為１.７％，人均收入為４萬美元。即便受到疫情影響，該國的成就提升了阿拉伯人的生活水準，讓阿拉伯成為世界強權（powerhouse）。在幾十年內，作為主要的石油出口國，阿拉伯已在金融、航空與旅遊等領域擴大自身的影響力，以未雨——終將枯竭的油田——綢繆。
From my conversations with some locals working in the UAE, they attributed to the leaders of the UAE, one in particular, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the founding father of the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Sheikh Zayed was instrumental in its transformation from a group of desert sheikhdoms into a modern, prosperous nation. His visionary leadership channeled oil revenues into infrastructure, education, and healthcare, while also emphasizing the preservation of Emirati culture and heritage. A skilled diplomat, environmental advocate, and philanthropist, Sheikh Zayed’s principles and foresight continue to shape the UAE’s trajectory as a beacon of development and cultural pride in the region.
我從一些阿拉伯人的口中得知，他們將這些成就歸功於阿拉伯的領導者，尤其是國父扎耶德．本．蘇爾坦．阿勒納哈揚（Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan，1918－2004），他在沙漠大公國蛻變為現代、繁榮國家的進程裡，有著卓越的貢獻。他是一位極富遠見的領導人，將石油的收益投入基礎建設、教育以及醫療保健當中。同時，也相當重視阿拉伯文化遺產的保護。身為一位老練的外交官、環保倡議者與慈善家，扎耶德所確立的準則與遠見，使阿拉伯的發展與文化自豪感成為中東的典範。不過，此一願景是否也有所缺失？
感興趣的同學不妨參考以下資訊：
https://www.state.gov/reports/2022-country-reports-on-human-rights-practices/united-arab-emirates/
https://www.hrw.org/world-report/2022/country-chapters/united-arab-emirates
In other conversations with locals and expats, we also discussed some social issues, like the lack of migrant workers’ rights and strict regulatory systems. While traveling, I found that Facebook wasn’t an option for staying in touch with my family (but Google Meet worked just fine). Furthermore, the region is currently wrestling with significant environmental challenges, stemming from the rampant exploitation of natural resources, swift population expansion, and escalated energy demands. These represent formidable obstacles that necessitate immediate attention and resolution by both local leadership and the community at large. These predicaments highlight the fact that the region, despite its rapid developmental strides, is simultaneously navigating a plethora of impediments. The environmental crisis is particularly acute; rampant resource utilization has disrupted ecological equilibrium, thereby endangering prospects for sustainable development. The burgeoning population coupled with soaring energy requirements exacerbates these dilemmas, leaving indelible impacts on both ecological and societal structures. Addressing these conundrums demands a synergistic approach involving both local governance and community engagement. Enhanced policy frameworks, elevated public consciousness, and a steadfast commitment to sustainable development practices are imperative. Such endeavors are essential not only for fostering a more stable and harmonious regional future but also carry significant implications on a global scale.
在與當地的居民及僑民交流時，我耳聞了一些社會問題。例如，移工的權益不足，以及嚴格的審查制度。在旅途中，我意識到無法用Facebook聯繫家人，但Google Meet卻沒有這樣的問題。此外，當地因自然資源的過度開發、人口的急遽增長以及對能源的高度需求，引發了一連串的環境問題。這些挑戰無疑表明，在迅速發展的同時，當地也遭遇了許多難題。嚴峻的環境問題不容小覷，過度開採已破壞了生態平衡，使得永續發展或將無以為繼。人口暴增與高度的能源需求激化了這些問題，對環境與社會造成了深遠的影響。這些都是當地領袖與居民所須正視並處理的重要課題。而解決這些問題對當地乃至全球都至關重要。
Climate 氣候
I think one of the first things you will notice when you step out of the plane is the weather. You feel like you are immediately trapped in an oven with a tinge of sand in the air. I personally would not last out in the intense heat during the day. I highly recommend visiting in the winter. In the UAE, fall (October to December) sees a gradual decline in the intense summer heat, with temperatures ranging from 24°C to 35°C. Winter (January to March) offers the mildest weather, with daytime temperatures between 20°C to 30°C, and cooler nights. Winter is probably your best bet for a more comfortable climate for outdoor activities.
我想，當你下飛機時，會先注意到當地的天氣。你會覺得自己似乎被困在一個火爐裡，空氣中還帶有一絲沙塵。在白天兇猛的熱浪裡，我完全吃不消。我強烈建議各位，冬天的時候再來這裡。在阿拉伯，夏季的高溫會逐漸於秋季（１０至１２月）下降，氣溫範圍在２４到３５度之間；冬季（１至３月）的天氣最為溫和，白天的氣溫在２０到３０度之間，夜晚則更為涼爽。冬季應該是最適合到戶外活動的季節。
Architectural Wonders 建築奇觀
As you can see in the photos, the architecture of the UAE is simply astounding, especially considering everything is in the middle of the desert. Seeing all the skyscrapers, I would imagine that most of the building materials are imported and the labor required is immense.
就像我們在照片裡看到的那樣，阿拉伯的建築簡直嘆為觀止，而且這些建築竟然都坐落在廣袤無垠的沙漠裡。每當我看見那高聳入雲的大樓時，總會想到絕大部分的建築材料都須仰賴進口，而其中的勞動力更是巨大無比。
Since I did not have the opportunity to visit rural regions, I can comment only on what I saw in the more commercialized areas. In big cities, you see a lot of your conventional high-rises fused with an Islamic influence. That is, the insides are typically adorned with geometric designs and patterns, often inspired by ancient Islamic art and the natural world. These structures, though towering and modern, often incorporate arches, courtyards, and intricate latticework reminiscent of traditional Middle Eastern architecture. It’s this marriage of the contemporary with the historical that gives the UAE its distinct architectural identity, a testament to its roots yet an eye towards the future. Thus, you get that familiar sense of what you are used to in big malls and office buildings but adorned completely in Islamic art.
苦於沒有機會參觀鄉村地區，我只能對更加商業化的地方抒發一己之見。在大城市裡，融合伊斯蘭風格的摩天大樓比比皆是。建築物內部經常見有幾何圖案與花紋的裝飾，大多源於自然界與古老的伊斯蘭藝術。即便這些建築是如此的參天與現代，卻時常融入拱門、庭院與繁複的網格狀工藝，使人想起傳統的中東建築。這種現代與歷史的結合，使阿拉伯的建築獨具特色——立足傳統，展望未來。因此，在保有伊斯蘭藝術的同時，我們依舊能從大型的購物中心與辦公大樓裡找到熟悉感。
Some of us might be familiar with the Burj Al Arab in Dubai, designed to resemble a sail, so I won’t post pics of that. You should definitely check out the Louvre Abu Dhabi, with its unique “rain of light” dome. Spanning 180 meters, the dome’s intricate geometric pattern, made up of 7,850 “stars,” filters sunlight to create a mesmerizing interplay of light and shadow, when taken in with the ocean waves below. The collection itself is of course smaller than the collection in Paris, but still quite complete in their chronology of the region. The funny thing is nearly every description of artifacts contains information found in our vocabulary course.
我想同學們可能早就知道著名的杜拜帆船酒店（Burj Al Arab）——看起來很像一艘風帆——所以我不打算分享它的照片。我非常推薦阿布達比的羅浮宮（Louvre Abu Dhabi），其獨特的「光雨」穹頂（rain of light dome）絕對值得一看。穹頂寬達１８０公尺，與海浪相得益彰，由７８５０顆「星星」組成的複雜幾何圖案過濾了陽光，創造出一場炫目的光影交融。藏品的數量雖比巴黎羅浮宮要少，但就中東的年表（chronology）而言已非常完整。有趣的是，我幾乎能在所有文物的介紹中，看到我們心智圖詞彙攻略的教學內容。
Another amazing splendor is the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. Before you gop, be sure to check out the dress code on their official website. You are expected to cover yourself according to your gender. The mosque was commissioned by the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who envisioned it as a monument that would unite Islamic architectural history with modern innovation. The mosque is huge and can accommodate more than 40,000 worshippers! It features 82 domes and more than 1,000 columns decorated with intricate inlays and carvings. It also has the world’s largest hand-knotted carpet, which covers the main prayer hall. Check out the colorful chandeliers, adorned with Swarovski crystals. The largest weighs approximately 12 tons. But it’s not just the scale and beauty that make the mosque unique. The materials used in its construction were sourced globally, embodying Sheikh Zayed’s vision of unity. Marble came from Macedonia, chandeliers from Germany, and artisans and craftsmen were employed from around the world, including India, Italy, and Morocco. An interesting tidbit, the word for unity is Etihad, which happens to be the name of UAE’s national airline.
另一處令人驚嘆的奇觀是阿布達比的謝赫扎耶德大清真寺（Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque）。請務必在到訪前，查閱他們官網上的服飾規定，須依照自身性別來遮蔽身體的某些部位。這座清真寺建於國父扎耶德任內，他將之視為融合了伊斯蘭建築歷史與現代創新的里程碑。這座清真寺非常巨大，至少能容納４萬名信徒！它有８２個圓頂、１千多根柱子，鑲嵌著精緻的浮雕。它還擁有全世界最大的手織地毯，覆蓋著主禱堂。看看那些五彩繽紛的吊燈，鑲嵌著施華洛世奇水晶，其中最大的水晶約１２噸重。但這座清真寺的美與規模仍不足以凸顯其獨特處。它的建築材料來自全球各地，彰顯出扎耶德的團結願景。大理石採自馬其頓，吊燈則從德國進口，而來自印度、義大利、摩洛哥的工匠與藝術家們也參與其中。
My personal recommendation is the Presidential Palace in the United Arab Emirates, also known as Qasr Al Watan or “Palace of the Nation.” It’s a must-see in Abu Dhabi, the UAE’s capital. The Qasr Al Watan is a symbol of the region’s rich history, heritage, and culture as it showcases Arabian craftsmanship and artistry. While it serves as the official meeting place for UAE government officials, it is also open to the public. The palace is a jaw dropping experience as everything is just so grand and luxurious. A trip here will probably take about 3 hours, and you can see some the pics I took in this post.
我個人推薦阿拉伯的總統府，也被稱為卡爾瓦安（Qasr Al Watan）或「國家宮殿」（Palace of the Nation）。這是阿拉伯首都阿布達比的必訪景點。卡爾瓦安象徵著中東豐富的歷史、遺產與文化，展示了阿拉伯的工藝與藝術。它是阿拉伯官員正式的會議場所，也對大眾開放。這座宮殿與人宏偉與奢華之感。參訪時間約為３個小時，你可以在這篇貼文中看到我拍的一些照片。
OK, so this post, of course, cannot fully encompass all that is going on in the UAE, but it was an eye-opening experience for me. Seeing these sites in person helped me better realize there’s a lot more to our world than what our press and social media feed us. I do suggest that you only visit when it is completely safe. I skipped going to Palestine this time because of the potential dangers involved and now that war has escalated in the region, I am glad I didn’t go that far.
當然，這篇文章不能完全涵蓋阿拉伯的所有事情，但對我來說，這是一次大開眼界的體驗。親眼見證這些景點，讓我更加真切地感到，我們的世界遠不止新聞與社群媒體上的那些。不過，我也建議各位，不要在敏感的時間點來這裡參觀。由於潛在的危險因素，當時我並未前往巴勒斯坦。鑑於當前該地區的戰事加劇，我為自己的決定感到慶幸。
This article reflects my personal thoughts and is a prayer for those engulfed in the turmoil of war. I hope that amidst war’s shadows, the sharing and understanding of cultures can still radiate light, providing hope and strength. This, I believe, can help people rebuild and strive for a future that’s more inclusive and harmonious. From the bottom of my heart, I wish for the safety and well-being of all Israelis and Palestinians.
這篇貼文是我的個人感想，並為那些深陷戰爭泥淖裡的人們祈禱。願文化的共享與理解能繼續在戰爭的陰影中綻放光芒，給予人們希望與力量，以重建並追求那更加包容、更為和諧的未來。我由衷盼望所有的以色列人與巴勒斯坦人安然無恙。